By Mitchell Nover
Chef Norman Van Aken has returned to the Miami restaurant scene with Three (50 NW 24th St #101, Wynwood) at the Wynwood Arcade. The fine dining restaurant’s name represents many things. Not only is Three an encapsulation of Southbound Hospitality’s presence at Wynwood Arcade—three principal partners with three endeavors: the Cooking School, the Restaurant, and the Rooftop Restaurant Lounge, but it’s also representative of the famed chef’s past, present, and future. Moreover, the number three is also considered the number of harmony, wisdom, and understanding. Three is a sacred number, a divine number, and is at the core of good fortune. But more important than all of that, three is mainly one thing: delicious.
Menu highlights: Three is a celebration of Norman Van Aken’s elevated Floridian cuisine, highlighted by New World flavors that represent and and celebrate the ethnic diversity and food history of Florida in a globally-informed way. The brunch menu brings that sentiment to the forefront in a bold and bright way that is perfect for a daytime delight.
All good brunches should start off with some sort of baked goods and the “Snacks” section of the Three brunch menu does just that with the choice between Vanilla Brioche Feuillette with lemon curd or Almond-Coconut Sticky Buns. Other starters include the Hush Puppies with bacon remoulade, bringing a Southern classic back to life (a great sharing dish) and the Hamachi Aguachile with Sichuan cucumbers and huacatay, which shows off Miami’s Latin side while also offering a lighter, fresher option.
The “Savory” section of the menu features a variety of classic brunch dishes, each with a distinct Florida twist that Chef Van Aken made his name on. You can’t go wrong with the Fried Chicken and Buckwheat Waffles with ají dulce syrup and smoked butter or the Smoked Fish Benedict with grilled bread, hollandaise, and poached eggs. And pancake lovers will rejoice in the Cuban-inspired Plátano Maduro Pancakes with banana-passion fruit jam, whipped cream, and vanilla bean maple syrup.
Standout dishes: It’s not only because I love all things carbs, but the Southbound Biscuits with Benton’s Country Ham and blueberry jam are a serious standout. Many restaurants in Miami offer up Southern biscuits on their brunch menus, but these just might be the best in town. Crispy on the outside and flaky and buttery on the inside, these beauties are reason enough to spend a #SundayFunday at Three.
I also have to include the Sea Island Red Pea Salad with charred gem lettuce, pickled summer squash, and preserved citrus dressing in my standouts because of the surprise factor. I never would have thought that a seemingly simple salad could pack so much punch, especially given the creativity of the aforementioned brunch dishes that Three has to offer. But maybe it’s that very simplicity that attracted me to this one, offering something of a respite amidst the other heavier menu items. And it doesn’t hurt that the dish is just downright gorgeous.
Are we boozing? We most certainly are! The beverage program at Three complement Chef Van Aken’s menu with a thoughtful wine list and a cocktail menu that pays homage to the classics, while drawing inspiration from our rich tropical locale. Start off with a glass of bubbles (because brunch), but don’t miss out on the boozy Brunch Punch either.
Check this place out if you like: Southern-inspired and/or Florida-forward brunch menus like those at Bird & Bone, Pinch Kitchen, or The Local.
Mitch’s take: Looking for the next restaurant on our brunch bucket list? Your decision should be as easy as one, two, Three!
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